It can also minimize downtime and labor costs. These wheels feature grain blends selected for consistent performance and a contaminant-free bond. High quality, aluminum-specific products are designed to cut smoothly while minimizing burr formation. They also significantly reduce the noise and vibration through the cut, and are therefore easier to control. Resin fiber discs RFDs designated for aluminum are a good option for grinding, blending and finishing.
RFDs are used with a firm rubber backing pad that offers flat, consistent contact with the material during use, making them easier to control and blend. The best discs are pre-treated or coated with a lubricant to reduce heat buildup while grinding. This feature helps delay melting of the aluminum, preventing the disc from loading and offering higher cut rates, along with a longer product life.
Another alternative to a resin fiber disc for grinding, blending and finishing are treated or top-coated flap discs. These discs are available in a variety of grain options; however, they are not as popular in the industry since they are more pliable and require a higher skill set to gain the desired surface finish. That said, they offer the advantage of time savings in some cases, since they allow for grinding and finishing in one step; there is no need to switch from a Type 27 grinding wheel to a resin fiber disc to complete the job.
Since aluminum is easy to damage, some welding operators use non-woven hand pads or steel wool to finish by hand and minimize potential damage to the part. Non-woven discs and wheels, though, can save time compared to manual finishing. Non-woven discs and wheels are ideal for decorative finishing, satin and antique finishes, final sanding, soft metal finishing and fine burr removal.
Power brushes for cleaning also help get the job done quickly without applying excessive pressure that could damage the aluminum. It is important to use high quality, contaminate-free products and to let the wheel do the work. Applying pressure to increase performance will only lead to additional frustration and compromise quality.
Also, a strong, consistent weld begins with proper surface preparation. The cleaner the seam being welded, the better the weld penetration. For best results always use a product that is designed for use on aluminum.
The best products will cut cleanly and smoothly without pitting, gouging or undercutting. There are several high performance products available to get the job done quickly and efficiently, so always consult your trusted distributor abrasive manufacturer to understand what options are available for the application.
For more information and to view an aluminum solutions guide, please click here. Thanks Rick, for that very informative tip. However, you did not mention which type or types of abrasive material would be suitable for finishing aluminum. Would you care to share? Its interesting to note how you explained that since aluminum is easy to damage, some welding operators use non-woven hand pads or steel wool to finish by hand and minimize potential damage to the part.
My interest in this came around after having a conversation with my brother on industrial aluminum polishing last Tuesday afternoon. I wanted to do know more about and thus, my research led me here. Thanks for all the information! AAG is excited to announce the launch of their new corporate website, aagcnc. Skip to content Supplier Directory Subscribe. Log in Social login does not work in incognito and private browsers. Please log in with your username or email to continue.
No account yet? Create an account. Edit this Article. We use cookies to make wikiHow great. By using our site, you agree to our cookie policy. Cookie Settings. Learn why people trust wikiHow. Download Article Explore this Article methods. Tips and Warnings. Things You'll Need. Related Articles. Article Summary. Method 1. Use a wood-cutting saw with carbide-tipped blades to cut most aluminum. If possible, choose a saw blade that creates narrow kerfs the notch or slot made by the saw.
Apply cutting lubricants on your blades or bits. This can range from standard oil to saw wax. Since you'll be cutting metal on metal, you want to lubricate it to prevent sparks and slippage. WD is the standard lubricant when cutting aluminum. Apply 5 to 6 small spurts on both the bottom and top halves of the blade. Reduce the diameter of the cutting blade for better results.
The cutting speed used for wood is generally going to be too fast to safely cut aluminum. For example, if you use a 10 inch 25 cm saw, you can reduce the blade to 7. This will slow your cutting speed.
If it's not possible to alter blade sizes, consider purchasing equipment with a variable speed router and use the slowest setting. These types of equipment are typically more expensive, but offer a degree of flexibility ideal for cutting aluminum.
Use a C-clamp to secure your aluminum piece s. Loosen the bar within the jaw by turning it counterclockwise. Place the clamp upright, with the open end of the jaw facing your working surface and the bottom of the jaw underneath the tabletop. Place your aluminum into the jaw and tighten the clamp around it by turning the metal rod clockwise. This allows you to cut your aluminum without getting near the blades. Feed the aluminum through the blade, or the blade through the aluminum.
Hold the saw firmly with your dominant hand. Apply downward pressure as you move the blade along your metal. Be sure to work slower than you would with wood. Steady, even pressure is the safest way to go. Remain clear from the kickback zone where recently cut pieces are thrown clear by the power of the saw when cutting.
This is usually directly behind the saw. Alternately, you can use a bridge to secure your saw and reduce kickback. Always keep your fingers away from the saw blade. Retract the blade guard and hold it beside your aluminum piece. Loosen the depth adjustment knob or lever and rotate the base of the saw until the blade is 0. Afterwards, tighten the knob or lever. Use a jigsaw if circular cuts need to be made in the aluminum. Clamp a guide to your aluminum on both sides of your saw.
Position the saw close to the side of the aluminum where you want to begin cutting. Afterwards, lower the blade approximately 0.
Push the saw slowly across your aluminum piece by twisting the back of the saw into the direction opposite to the direction you want the blade to move. Always use carbide-tipped blades. Lubricate the blade before using it, and cut slowly. Method 2. Purchase a cold chisel that is 1 size wider than the aluminum. Use a measuring tape to determine the width of your aluminum. Afterwards, select an appropriate sized chisel.
Sharpen your chisel to a to degree bevel using a honing guide. Fit your chisel into your honing guide a tool that clamps onto your tool either from the sides or from above and below and tighten the screws on both sides to keep it in place. Set the guide to the appropriate angle, and then place the bevel the metal edge of your chisel against a second-cut, medium-coarse file.
Hold the guide with both hands and move the chisel back and forth in a thin, figure-eight pattern. When new scratches begin to appear, switch to a fine grit. Wipe the bevel between each grit using a dry, clean cloth.
Place your aluminum piece into your vice and tighten it. Position the piece in the center of the vice's jaws. Make sure that it's tightened firmly in place. Align the chisel with your vice's screw and hammer the aluminum. Hold the chisel tip against the metal—perpendicular to it—with your non-dominant hand.
Use a ball-peen hammer to strike the chisel's handle and always cut perpendicular to the jaws of the vice. Continue striking the metal until there is a notch in it. At this point, you should easily be able to snap it into 2 pieces with your hands. You should be able to cut your aluminum metal piece within 30 seconds.
Anything longer and you're probably using the wrong sized chisel, or you need to use a saw. This makes it easier for your chisel to get into your aluminum's hardened grains of metal. Never use a claw hammer—the heads are not designed for hitting hard metal and are prone to chipping.
If you're cutting a line in a sheet of aluminum, you can skip the vice and cut your way down the sheet on a flat surface.
Use wood as a backing piece to help push the chisel through the metal and prevent the chisel's tip from wearing.
Method 3. Cut circles in aluminum using curve-cutting snips. Draw a circle in permanent marker on the aluminum piece. Afterwards, create a starter hole within the circle by hammering the back of a straight-blade screwdriver into the metal.
Then, place your tin snips into the opening. If you're cutting counterclockwise, use red-handed offset compound snips; if you're cutting clockwise, use green-handled snips. Use both green and red snips for tough cuts.
When 1 pair stops working, swap snips. Air conditioning and heating work will most likely require you to alternate between the two because they require a combination of straight and curved cuts.
Purchase large tin snips to make straight cuts in aluminum sheets. Always open your snips as wide as possible before making a straight cut. Straight cuts are best accomplished using smooth, long strokes. As you cut, pull the cut strip upwards, and then to the side—this prevents it from sticking to the handle of your snips or blocking your handle during the cutting motion. Compound snips are designed for situations that require maneuvering as opposed to straight cuts. If you have no other option, be sure to fully open and close the snips for each stroke that you make—this will ensure maximum cut length.
Use straight-cutting compound snips opened wide for thick metal.
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